Vacuuming with a dusting brush attachment gently removes dust from furniture surfaces, preventing buildup. If no vacuum cleaner, use a clean soft cloth, turning it often, or soft paper towels to pick up dust. Dust furniture before vacuuming floors. If the finish is water resistant, a barely dampened towel or cloth will pick up dust.

Pads, mats and coasters on furniture, mats under vases, glasses, cups etc. protect them from spills and stains, and from heated objects. Do not use plastic or rubber on natural wood surfaces as they may soften and damage finish. Use felt under objects set on top of furniture that could scratch it.

The oil finish can have many names, from countries, i.e. French, Danish, and Dutch to brands. Basically cleaning oiled wood requires you blend: 1 pint boiled linseed oil, 1 pint gum turpentine, and 6 oz. distilled white vinegar. Gum turpentine is flammable but smells like fresh wood. Wear gloves. Do not use around flame or spark; do not get on skin. Wipe the surface with a soft cloth that has been dipped in the cleaning solution. Never pour the solution directly onto the wood. Let the solution stand for a few minutes to loosen the soil; then wipe off the excess. All excess oil must be removed or it will attract dust and get gummy or tacky. To finish, rub with the grain.

NEVER USE wax or furniture polish on oil finishes. Re-oil yearly with boiled linseed oil, tung oil, or a product recommended by the manufacturer. These oils harden when exposed to air and seal the wood. Never use non-drying oils like mineral oil for wood finishes for furniture. Avoid using an oil dressing too often or too liberally as it will cause a hardened oil build-up. If this happens, use mineral spirits (paint thinner) to dissolve the residue.

Lacquer is hard and glossy but is also brittle so it may be dented or chipped. Avoid hard blows. Avoid use of water unless furniture label recommends it. The newer synthetic lacquers are more durable, however older lacquered pieces and many imports have finishes affected by some solvents, so test every product first on an inconspicuous area.

Regularly you will want to dust with a soft, dry cloth. Never use oiled or treated cloths on lacquered finishes. Some finishes can be wiped with a damp (not wet) cloth, followed at once by rubbing with a dry cloth, (test first in inconspicuous spot) to remove fingerprints and smudges. A solvent-based furniture cleaner may be useable on many finishes but always test first. Apply liquid wax on occasion to maintain a gloss,

When heavy cleaning is called for use a solvent base furniture cleaner. Apply with soft cloth in one hand, and wipe at once with soft cloth in other hand, doing only a small area at a time. An oil soap may be satisfactory on some finishes but test first to be sure it is OK with finish. Protect with liquid wax or polish to maintain a gloss.

Old furniture may have a shellac finish, probably refinished at home. Knotty pine rooms also were treated normally with shellac. Keep moisture away from shellac surfaces. Water or a damp environment, as in humidity, makes shellac sticky. Test in an inconspicuous spot with denatured alcohol; shellac will dissolve quickly. Vacuum or dust regularly with a soft, dry cloth; do not use oiled or treated cloth.

You may protect the finish with a liquid furniture wax or cream polish that gives the desired gloss. If dirty, clean with either a cleaning polishing wax for furniture. Following the directions on the label for cleaning; or use a solution of equal parts of boiled linseed oil and mineral spirits. Moisten a soft cloth with cleaner and rub briskly, changing cloth when soiled. If surface is very dirty, process may have to be repeated. Use 3/0 or 4/0 steel wool to remove stubborn soil and smooth roughened places. If finish is in poor condition, use denatured alcohol to remove, and refinish with modern finish.

Varnished wood should be protected with a furniture wax. As wax and varnish are perishable, protect surfaces from water, alcohol, other liquids, foods and cosmetics. Table pads, glass tabletops and other coverings work best.

Dust regularly with a soft dry cloth. If finish is waxed, do not use oiled or treated cloths, as they may make wax sticky. Occasional rubbing of surface with clean, dry, soft cloth removes smudges and dust and leaves a sheen. Some varnish finishes may be wiped with a moist (not wet) cloth to remove fingerprints and light soil, followed at once by rubbing with a clean dry cloth. Test first on inconspicuous spot to be sure this does not damage varnish. Do not get varnish wet, or allow damp cloth to stand on it.

When dirt or grime have built up, clean with a solvent-based furniture cleaner polish, or wax. Use one that gives desired gloss compatible with varnish gloss, high or low luster. Most polishes and waxes leave a layer of wax on surfaces to protect finish. In cleaning, do only a small area at a time and wipe dry with clean cloth. Waxed surface may be buffed occasionally to restore shine. Rewax if buffing does not restore a shine.

Excess wax or polish is an enemy. Remove it with a cloth dampened with mineral spirits or synthetic turpentine. (Natural turpentine may leave a sticky residue.) Should the furniture be badly soiled due to neglect, use very fine 3/O or 4/O steel wool instead of a cloth and rub with the grain of the wood. Some finishes can be damaged by prolonged contact with mineral spirits. Clean small areas at a time. Wipe each area with a clean cloth before going on to the next. Discard steel wool as it becomes soiled.

When using mineral spirits, turpentine, or other solvents, including solvent-based cleaners, follow all label warnings. They are flammable, so don't use near any flame, spark, pilot light, and don't smoke. Wear rubber gloves to protect your hands, and dispose of them afterward, or wash in hot suds and air dry. Air-dry cloths used in cleaning to evaporate the solvent before disposing.

Some varnishes may be washed if badly soiled. Test method first in inconspicuous spot; if it streaks, or turns white and hazy, STOP! If OK to proceed, use solution of mild detergent (hand safe dishwashing liquid) and lukewarm water. Use clean sponge or soft cloth. Wash, rinse and dry only a small area at a time, working fast to avoid over-wetting finish. Avoid excess water, especially around joints. When completely dry, polish or wax. In most cases, it saves time and energy to clean with furniture polish/wax in the first place.

Oil soaps may clean satisfactorily on some varnish finishes; test first in inconspicuous spot.

Polyurethane finishes are liquid plastic resins that dry to a durable satin or gloss finish. Polyurethane finishes are much more resistant to moisture and spills and moderate heat than traditional varnishes, and do not need much protection. Note most manufactured furniture is NOT Polyurethane coated, as it requires considerably more drying time and intercoat work to apply commercially.

Dust regularly with a soft dry cloth and wipe dry. When needed wipe with a moist cloth, not wet. This will remove fingerprints and light soil. When dirt or grime have built up, clean with mineral spirits.

Wax or polish can build into an enemy. Remove it with a cloth dampened with mineral spirits. Clean small areas at a time. Wipe each area with a clean cloth before going on to the next. Wear rubber gloves to protect your hands, and dispose of them afterward, or wash in hot suds and air dry. Air-dry cloths used in cleaning to evaporate the solvent before disposing.

Guide to Painted Furniture Finishes

• Rub a Few Drops of Boiled Linseed Oil Into the Wood - If it absorbs, the wood has an oil finish. If it beads up, the wood has a hard finish (continue)
• Rub Acetone Over a Spot in a Gentle, Circular Motion - Polyurethane finishes shed acetone like water. Lacquer dissolves in 30 seconds with rubbing. Varnishes and shellacs turn to a sticky, gel-like substance after a minute or two (continue)
• Try a Few Drops of Denatured Alcohol - Shellac dissolves quickly in denatured alcohol. Varnish reacts slowly

This article has been contributed in part by Michigan State University Extension

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